If you’re not in the mood for a long, lingering brunch, skip Georgia Brown’s: You’ll need two to three hours to do this place justice. The $21.95 prix-fixe meal is, like any brunch, a combination of breakfast and lunch items—only here, you’re expected first to eat breakfast and, after a while, to move on to lunch. It’s not one meal but two.

It’s easy to spend time here: The chairs and banquettes are comfortable, the place is pretty and bright, and there’s live, jazzy music. When you’re seated, the waiter will explain how the brunch works and take drink orders—special concoctions include a bloody mary served with a spiced jumbo shrimp. The $21.95 prices does not include beverages, alcoholic or other.

Then you’re free to head to the buffet, where offerings include smoked bacon, country sausage, creamy grits, twice-sautéed potatoes, buttery biscuits, French toast, fresh fruit, and salad. Don’t miss the omelet station, which turns out thin, savory omelets with a choice of fillings, such as mushrooms and peppers sautéed in wine.

The buffet is all-you-can-eat, but don’t eat all you can, because you’re not done. Next comes a choice of entrée—the five on the day we visited were buttermilk fried chicken, fried or grilled catfish, grilled Atlantic salmon, Carolina gumbo, and rock shrimp and grits. The portions are heaping, accompanied by sides like braised greens and mashed potatoes.

You’re not rushed, and service is a tad slow anyway. After the entrees, a buffet of desserts awaits. These were the only disappointments: The pound cake and warm peach cobbler were okay but not memorable.
Otherwise, the food is very good—there’s just too much of it. But you can take home leftovers. That gives you three meals for the price of one. Which is good, because you’re paying for it—extras like coffee ($2.50), drinks ($7.95), tax, and tip can bring the total to $70 for two.